broadsideblog

My 30-hour train journey: New York to Minneapolis

In beauty, books, cities, culture, journalism, life, photography, travel, urban life, US, work, world on October 29, 2012 at 5:30 pm

As some of you may know, a hurricane is due to hit the Eastern Seaboard of the U.S. sometime this morning. I’m giving a speech Tuesday evening at 7:00 pm in Minneapolis, Minnesota so Friday night, Jose suggested I jump on a train to make sure I actually got there in time, as all of New York’s public transit was being shut down, and flights were sure to be canceled.  By Sunday evening — as I was almost at my destination on Amtrak — the wait time to speak to a customer service rep for Delta airlines was between seven and ten hours…

I bought a $227 one-way ticket (with nowhere to sleep but sitting up in my chair) and hoped for the best.

So, here I am, writing this from my Minneapolis hotel room, and here’s my story…

I left from Croton-Harmon, the Amtrak station about 15 minutes drive north of our home, to get to Albany, a two-hour journey, where I changed trains for the 15 hour trip to Chicago. I initially boarded the Ethan Allen Express, named for a Vermont hero.

The Hudson Valley, where I begin this trip, is one of the prettiest places in the United States, its trees now a blast of red, yellow, orange, brown and crimson — all likely to disappear after the hurricane blows through this week. The train tracks hug the eastern shore of the Hudson River, speeding (a relative word — crawling, compared to a TGV) past 18th. century towns and landmarks like West Point, the military academy. We passed Our Lady of Restoration Chapel, built in 1840 facing the river, where I was married (the first time) in May 1992.

The car is filled with students. A young girl is busy rolling cigarettes on her notebook, carefully adding filters. The girl behind her is knitting a gray scarf. Two young men behind me discuss their friends.

“She married a prince of some foreign country! That’s crazy. She’ll never have to work and someday she’ll be a queen.”

The train for Chicago, the Lake Shore Limited, leaves Albany at 7:05 p.m. and I settle into my aisle seat, a large woman in the window seat whose bum will press up against mine (and vice versa) for the next 15 hours, even though we don’t speak. The train is packed, and I can hear many people saying they, too, are fleeing Hurricane Sandy and whatever havoc it might wreak.

I sit in the lounge car, now that it’s dark, and watch a DVD on my laptop,  Frozen River, an excellent 2008 feature film about two desperately poor women who smuggle illegal immigrants in their car trunk across the St. Lawrence between the U.S. and Canada. It’s an apt choice because at Syracuse, two hours north of Albany (and 1.5 hours south of the Canadian border) immigration officials climb aboard and check some people’s identification. I overhear them say they are removing someone with all their luggage.

In the lounge car, a bearded young Aussie in a black hoodie is yammering on to a pretty young Hispanic girl who, with great pride, tells him she passed an employer’s drug test by using her mother’s urine.

We all sleep in whatever position we can manage within our seats, but no one bothers to pull the dark blue curtains so the brilliant orange lights of the passing landscape keep flickering through the glass. My soft challis scarf makes a perfect eye-shade wrapped around my head and my wool cape is long enough to make a warm blanket and small pillow.

I fall asleep at 1:00 a.m. but am awake at 4:00 as we stop in Cleveland, Ohio. A man three rows ahead of me is reading his laptop, the screen blindingly bright in the darkness.

The train crosses northern New York, a narrow sliver of Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana and into Illinois. A man got on in Albany struggling to carry a huge ice chest filled with food, as well as his rolling suitcase, black fabric covered with pink flamingos, so full he cannot zip it closed. He looks poor and scrawny and tired, like many of the passengers. This is the America that will vote in a week for their new President.

Who will they choose?

This is a whole other America, one I rare see in my affluent suburban bubble near Manhattan, where a devastating moment is your kid not getting into Harvard or Yale.

At sunrise, around 7:00 a.m., we straggle to the lounge car for coffee and tea. One woman’s hair (like mine) is squashed and crimped from behind — bedhead.

Trainhead?

I sip my tea and eat my pain au chocolat that Jose packed for me, and watch the sun gilding the shorn cornfields of Indiana, a vegetative high and tight. It seeps across the pick-up trucks and barns and silos and quiet farmhouses. Cows and horses stand in their paddocks, waiting for the day to begin.

We barrel through this quiet landscape, timeless, lovely, calm.

Chicago!

I have a four hour layover, from 9:45 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. until my train leaves for Minneapolis, (its final destination is Seattle). I buy a locker (using a scanner that takes my fingerprint! for $12) and stuff my things into it. I buy my three usual weekend newspapers, The Wall Street Journal, New York Times and Financial Times, and head out into the sunshine.

Right outside the train station is the Chicago River, crossed by a number of bridges. This is the view from the Adams Street bridge.

I was in Chicago in November 2011 for the first time, so I know where I am and where to go, which I consider such a luxury — feeling at home in a place far away. I head toward Lake Michigan to find a spot for breakfast, to settle in and read my newspapers.

But first, I want to say hello to my history, and head a few blocks over to State Street, to this white tower, built in 1912, developed by my great grandfather Louis M. Stumer. The architects, Holabird and Roche, did many of the city’s grandest buildings. I love having a personal connection to this great city and a building that still stands at its heart.

100 years old, thanks great-grandDad Louis Stumer!

A fantastic art supply store, Blick, is their main tenant. If you love great paper, notebooks, pens — go! I stocked up there last time.

I settle in for breakfast at the Corner Bakery, and pick up a sandwich for the rest of my journey, another 8.5 hours further west to Minneapolis.

I board the Empire Builder, a two-storey train I last took from here in August 2002, (heading to Vancouver, Canada to see my mother through brain surgery) that goes all the way west through another half-dozen enormous states, to Seattle, where its final miles of track are mere feet from the Pacific Ocean. (I was then in Dayton, Ohio researching my first book, about women and guns, when the surgeon told me to get there as fast as I could. Last-minute airfares are so costly, I went by bus and train.)

This time I’m seated beside a woman who is a retired archeologist, whose late husband was an astronomer whose experiments rode inside two space missions. She did work in Michoacan, a state in Mexico I’ve also visited and knows Santa Fe, NM well, where my husband was born, so we have lots to discuss.

But I soon withdraw into music on my laptop and an empty two-chair spot, to sleep as much as I can. I listen to Briton John Renbourn’s acoustic guitar and Canadian singer Sarah McLachlan, — gentle, meditative — both a perfect soundtrack as the sun sets over the fields of Wisconsin. We stand still — waiting, every time for a freight train ahead of us — as the fading light paints a stand of white birch trees to our right a soft pink.

The train rattles along, through towns like Red Wing, Minnesota and Lacrosse, Wisconsin. Here’s a photo of the station at Columbia, Wisconsin; a few minutes later a small parade of kids came by in their Hallowe’en costumes.

As I walk the car’s narrow aisle, I see a group of women knitting the most extraordinary things I’ve ever seen. “Are those…feathers?” I ask one. “Yup. It’s going to be a cowl,” she says, showing me creamy wool with gleaming feathers sticking out of it. “This ain’t your grandma’s knitting!”

I get to talking to two of the women — 38 of them belong to a passionate Minneapolis group that’s just gone to Chicago for a three-day knitting conference. Their fingers are all flying: an orange sweater, a pale pink sock, a black hat. One offers to make me a muffler, complete with feathers, if I pay for the materials. Yay!

One woman lived for years in Pakistan, and her friend has been to Afghanistan and Thailand and Pakistan. People are amazing. You never know who’s sitting beside you or behind you or in front of you — until you find out.

We stop for a brief break somewhere in the Wisconsin/Minnesota? darkness. People are eager for fresh air, a cigarette, a chance to walk around a bit.

This is a Santa Fe car parked on the tracks beside us as we took our micro-liberty.

“All aboard!”

We shuffle back in and climb the narrow stairs, as this train has two levels, including my favorite — the observation car — whose individual seats face outwards. When I did this trip in 2002, and came all the way from Seattle back to NY, it was one of the best experiences of my life.

You really can have no idea how beautiful the U.S. until it has flashed past you for days and nights on end, mile after mile after mile: farms and fields and rivers and cities and ducks on still ponds and flying geese and abandoned factories and slick college campuses and huge mansions atop hills…

I ask a conductor if Minneapolis is halfway across.

“Oh, no! That might be in Montana.”

We are late, hardly unusual for Amtrak. Americans don’t like the train much, (or, to be correct the wealthy and powerful lobbyists for the auto and airline industry do not), so the system and its cars is slow, outdated and inefficient.

We pull into Minneapolis at 11:00 p.m. Sunday night. I started my trip at 3:58 p.m. Saturday in New York.

A man with two enormous incisions, with fresh black thread sticking out of his stitches, his right hand swollen like a balloon, clutches his small, trembling reddish dog against his enormous stomach. “She doesn’t like stairs,” he tells us.

We de-train.

I stumble into a taxi and head for my hotel. I’ll have two full days to recover before I speak about my book, Malled, and retail, to 100+ students at the University of Minnesota.

Made it!

  1. Love this story and proud of you for being the road warrior that you are. Also, love the images that you shot to go along with this. Well done my dear, well done. jose

  2. I love me some Amtrak! I am one of its biggest fans.

    b

  3. Welcome to my stomping grounds! Enjoy your stay – haven’t started Malled yet, but it’s in my stack of books for winter reading.

  4. Nice retelling of your trip, I love the sound of it. I’ve always enjoyed trains, even the bad trips for me have been good. The people, the views and the steady rhythm.

    Like your trip here I’ve spent many nights crossing the country (UK) not as big a crossing but with pleasures and trials all of its own.

    Maybe one day I’ll get to travel coast to coast in the States, who knows.

    Hope the talk goes well.

    Jim

  5. “You really can have no idea how beautiful the U.S. until it has flashed past you for days and nights on end, mile after mile after mile: farms and fields and rivers and cities and ducks on still ponds and flying geese and abandoned factories and slick college campuses and huge mansions atop hills…”

    This was really, really beautiful. Makes me homesick for the years I lived beneath the big sky of east central Illinois. Thank you for your blog. Your writing is deep, thoughtful and well-constructed. It’s also a wonderful contrast to so much of the air-filled chatter available online.

    • I’m so glad you enjoyed this! I find these journeys, for all sorts of reasons, moving and emotional — which is difficult to convey (well) in writing about it later. I was so very very happy on the train, seeing a world I barely know of as I live so much of my life in a citified bubble.

      Please keep visiting and commenting.

  6. I guess we forget in this day and age that railway is still there. And useful. I recall doing central Amsterdam-Paris in four hours on one of the high-speed European trains – pretty much the same time-wise, and certainly more convenient, than city centre to city centre via bus-Schiphol-jet-Orly-bus. The view, not so much – those stop-banks and 300 km/h at ground level pretty much put paid to sight-seeing. For me the memorable part was being able to sit in the dining car and watch the blur out the window – while a cup of coffee sat on the bar beside me with barely a ripple in the surface.

    I’ve never done the US by rail, but it sounds like a great way to see things.

    I hope all’s OK regards the ‘super storm’, we’re getting some pretty rugged stories about it on the news feeds here in New Zealand.

    • Which is sad. I so much prefer the train to flying, certainly for short-haul and even for longer journeys, if I have the time. I’ve done the Paris-Amsterdam trip. It’s crazy/great how quickly you can move around Europe. I so remember that still cup of coffee — great image!

      I would urge every tourist to the U.S. to consider one of the many rail journeys possible here. They all have romantic names and you’ll see so much you’d never understand otherwise.

      The storm is scary as hell: Jose is staying in NYC at a hotel across the street from his office; many people in our town have lost power — and bits of NYC are truly horrific: a crane fell on 57th street; the front of an entire apartment building sheared off in Chelsea (!) and below 39th Street there is very very bad flooding. I am very glad to be so far away right now. Thanks for asking! :-)

  7. Posts like these are why I read blogs in my lunch hour. Thanks for bringing a world outside “corporate” into sight, if only for a moment.

  8. Loved this post. I’ve been thinking of trying the trains in the US for a long time. Even if they take longer, I think the ambience is better. Not to mention I’m sick of being treated like chattel by the airlines. Having grown up a road-trip girl, I think the views alone are worth it.
    So cool that you met Vogue Knitters! I have a bunch of friends who went to the same conference – I heard it was amazing!

  9. It’s so funny…I had just watched The September Issue (my fave doc about the making of Sept. 2007 Vogue) and mentioned it to them. Oh, the other Vogue they said! I didn’t know what they meant and now I do. Thanks!

    The things these women were making were so incredibly cool. They were raving about what fun it was. Makes me want to try it, too, as we have a great yarn shop in my town.

    Do take the train!! I can’t say enough good things about how much better it is than flying. I love all of it …the train whistle, the rumble of the wheels, the people you meet and how very differently you experience your travels. You know you have gone 1,0000s of miles, that’s for sure. I wish I had the $$$$ to do more of it, with a sleeper. That makes it much more costly but also much more do-able for a cross-country trip.

  10. I love a good story of a journey, and I’ve always enjoyed the train – especially for taking those routes the car skips.

  11. I clicked on your blog to see how you made out in the storm. I’m glad you were far out of the path, and hope Jose fared well.

    • Thanks! Jose is in the city at a hotel (paid for by work) doing double shifts because some colleagues cannot get to work now without the subway or Metro-North. I fly home tomorrow and have been told our building is fine and we even have power in one room, the kitchen. I am very very glad I was far away from it. The photos were truly terrifying and I followed it through my NYC and NJ friends on Facebook.

  12. You’ve inspired me to try the train again. It’s been so many years since I’ve been on one. Thanks for taking me on the journey with you.

  13. I am taking the Amtrak from MN to New York and looking forward to the experience. I’m inspired by your piece.

    • Thanks!

      I really loved my experience…be sure to take lots of photos along the way. The train will show you bits and pieces of America you’ll never see any other way.

      I hope you’ll blog about your trip as well…

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