By Caitlin Kelly
As many of you know by now, more than 377 men and women making clothing for companies like Primark, JC Penney, Benetton and others, were killed two days ago in the collapse of a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Here’s part of the story from The New York Times:
Thousands of people surrounded the site on Sunday, watching the huge rescue operation, even as hopes faded that many more victims would be found alive. For nearly 12 hours, rescuers tried to save a trapped woman, lowering dry food and juice to her as they carefully cut through the wreckage trying to reach her. But then a fire broke out, apparently killing the woman, leaving many firefighters in tears.
With national outrage boiling over, Bangladeshi paramilitary officers tracked down and arrested Sohel Rana, the owner of the building, who was hiding near the Indian border, and returned him by helicopter to Dhaka. When loudspeakers at the rescue site announced his capture earlier in
the day, local news reports said, the crowd broke out in cheers.
The collapse of the building, the Rana Plaza, is considered the deadliest accident in the history of the garment industry. It is known to have claimed at least 377 lives, and hundreds more workers are
thought to be missing still, buried in the rubble.
The Rana Plaza building contained five garment factories, employing more than 3,000 workers, who were making clothing for European and American consumers.
It is worth reading the story because the accompanying photo is so heartbreaking, and one is horribly familiar to any New Yorker — it is a wall with posters and photos of missing workers, posted by their loved ones, seeking them. After the collapse of the Twin Towers on 9/11, struck down by two jet airliners, there was an equally feverish, often insane, hope that the thousands of workers trapped in those buildings might have escaped alive.
Some did. Many did not.
But their posters were plastered all over the city. They were truly “Wanted” posters, but too often in vain. You could not look at them, even if you knew no one affected, and not want to weep.
It is hard to know what, if anything, one can usefully say about this Dhaka disaster, the largest (so far) such industry accident in history:
— That the workers were very far away from the people who buy and wear the clothes they make
— That they earn, on average, $37 a month
— That they are completely without political and economic power since this industry is essential to the nation’s economy
— That many of the owners of these factories are also politicians, further weakening any oversight or regulation of the workers so endangered
— That we, as people who buy the cheap clothes they make, are all complicit
Three very powerful recent books are well worth reading, if this topic also disturbs and interests you:
Where Am I Wearing, by a young American freelance journalist who traveled to these countries and factories to meet and speak to the workers there.
Cheap, by Boston University professor Ellen Ruppel Shell, a scathing condemnation of what it really costs to produce some items we enjoy at low prices but hidden high costs, from frozen Thai shrimp to cultured pearls.
Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, by Elizabeth Cline.
As I write this post, I’m wearing a cotton Gap dress and cashmere Ralph Lauren cardigan; the dress was made in Indonesia and the sweater in China.
So, I too, am complicit in the use of overseas, sub-contracted, poorly-supervised labor. I know it. I hate it. I am not at all clear what (else) to do.
My clothes, probably like many of yours as well, no matter where you live, are made cheaply by people we will never meet or know or feel, possibly, much responsibility to.
Until they are killed making it.
What are our choices?
— Make all our own shoes and clothing, (not practical for most of us)
— Wear only clothing made by American workers, (if you are American)
— Look for the ILGWU label, if so
— Find out which manufacturers, (if possible), were sub-contracting work to Rana, and Tazreen, site of another major Bangladeshi garment factory fire that killed 112 workers and boycott all their products
— And spread the word through social media
Here’s a story about Aminul Islam, who tried to organize Bangladeshi garment factory workers.
He was killed.